Day 85: Tumkur to Hiriyur

The kindness of strangers 

We’ve had a day of challenges, but many moments when people were exceptionally kind to us as Tiger continues to struggle with nausea and with the heat. The food’s not been agreeing with him and he’s a bit down on energy at the present.

But, to start with the beginning of the day, our hotel last night was very bizarre - the triple bed was just the start. The mirror was at a jaunty angle, but fixed at that angle so as not to be straightened. The bell fitting was also fixed at a similar angle. The desk clerk seemed very ill suited to a customer service role and barked orders at us all through check-in. The lock on the door was a bolt and padlock, meaning you could lock people in if required.

Luckily we were guests that they decided not to detain and we escaped without issue in the morning.

We found what looked like a nice café to give Tiger a comfortable start to the day, but the microwaved sandwiches and tandoori fillings were still not the best start for him.

All packed and ready to go. After breakfast. (Can anyone spot the mistake?)

All packed and ready to go. After breakfast. (Can anyone spot the mistake?)

We got a fair way before taking a stop, but as the day heated up, Tiger was flagging. A stop for chai in the shade helped a little, and then a little further we pulled into a restaurant that was closed to just sit in the shade for a while and let Tiger rest.

In fact, he lay on the concrete floor and went to sleep. It was getting really hot in the sun - about 37˚C, so we stayed put and let him sleep.

Some boys pulled up on a scooter and wanted the inevitable selfies and then they headed off. Then we had another visitor, a local policeman. He just wanted to check we were ok and asked where we were heading, and did we want an ambulance for Tiger. We reassured him that Tiger would survive ok, and he left us to it.

Sarina is the punkawallah whilst Tiger sleeps.

Sarina is the punkawallah whilst Tiger sleeps.

A little while later, the policeman was back, with a 2L bottle of cold water for Tiger. What a wonderful man, and we were very grateful as all our water was very warm by this time. He also spotted that Blue Strawberry had a flat tyre (another one!) and offered to take me to a local workshop where they could fix it. I assured him we had everything we needed and set about fixing it, but he stayed with me to check everything was ok before leaving.

Our guardian angel, the local policeman.

Our guardian angel, the local policeman.

Next to visit was a man on a scooter who turned out to be from the temple next door. It was a holy day, Maha Shivratri, which is a public holiday here, so there were festivities taking place at temples all along the roadside. He asked us a lot of questions, but felt we should visit the temple next door, and was calling people on his mobile. Eventually Tiger was feeling a bit better, so we started to move off. It was as we were leaving a couple of women, who were friend of the man with a scooter arrived. They too thought we should come and eat at the temple. However, we didn’t feel the food was likely to be suitable for a convalescent Tiger, so we didn’t take them up on the offer, but one of the women insisted we take a banana from her small parcel of coconut and flowers she was carrying.

A gift from the temple next door.

A gift from the temple next door.

We headed off down the road, which was luckily a little cooler as a light covering of cloud was blocking the sun a little. Soon, we came to a Punjabi restaurant and decided to stop and get some food and a cold drink. It far exceeded our expectations.

After a short exchange with the owner, another diner stepped up to help translate. We agreed roti and daal would suit us, but then we had to explain that Tiger was not feeling well. Immediately we were told he had to have curd and rice, and the order was sent to the kitchen. They were right, Tiger ate some roti, some curd and some rice and was soon looking the most cheerful we’d seen him all day.

It turned out our translator was travelling on business. He’s an executive with PSS Oil Mills, a coconut oil producer and if anyone is looking for a supplier of best quality pure coconut oil, we have a sample you can try.

Tiger was also informed that a lassi was also prescribed for his condition, so the restaurant owner insisted he have that too, whilst Sarina and I had a nice cup of chai - a habit we’re very much enjoying.

Good medicine from Punjabi cuisine.

Good medicine from Punjabi cuisine.

We made it the last 20km to Hiriyur with no more drama, by taking it slowly. On arrival at the hotel though, you’d have thought a Lamborghini had rolled into town. We rapidly had a large crowd around us who all had a lot of questions. Unfortunately, we speak no Kannada and they had only a little English, so it was a fairly dysfunctional conversation.

What’s the best way to attract a crowd? Turn up in town on a tandem.

What’s the best way to attract a crowd? Turn up in town on a tandem.

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Day 84: Bengaluru to Tumkur

On the road, and dosa for breakfast and lunch!

Up bright and early and off on to the roads of Bengaluru. Thankfully, leaving on a Sunday has meant much less traffic and we were out of town without any issues - but not before stopping for a dosa for breakfast. This has to be one of the yummiest ways to start the day, a paper thin “pancake” with what we would call “bombay aloo” in the middle and a couple of curry gravies to go with it. Southern India is going to be great.

Dosa for breakfast

Dosa for breakfast

We had to stop by the Aconex offices for a selfie

We had to stop by the Aconex offices for a selfie

Then off onto the open road. The biggest obstacle to start with was scooters and cars coming alongside and asking us to stop for a selfie with them. There are so many requests we’ve taken a hard line - take your selfie on the move or nothing - we’re not stopping. It seems to have gone down ok so far.

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We had a lovely watermelon stop mid morning. We didn’t see any likely coffee shops, but fresh fruit is always a bonus, so we dived in. We also found we attract a bit of a crowd when we stop. The security guard, a well dressed chatty bloke, the head honcho from the local temple, plus many more were soon gathered around asking where we were going and then looking aghast - “On a bicycle? That’s a super journey!”

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Lunch stop was a “family restaurant - veg” which sounded ideal. It’s really easy to be vegetarian in India, which is a joy after south east Asia. We checked out the menu and looking at some interesting thalis when the waiter told us “only dosas at the moment.” Oh well, if it’s a great breakfast why shouldn’t it be a great lunch too?

This evening’s hotel has a very literal interpretation of a “triple room”. We have a triple bed! (good toe pointing tiger!)

This evening’s hotel has a very literal interpretation of a “triple room”. We have a triple bed! (good toe pointing tiger!)

Let’s hope we can find somewhere selling something other than dosa for dinner - or maybe we should go for the trifecta!

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Day 83: Rest day in Bengaluru

Bike building

Time to put the bikes back together, plus give them a bit of a service. All done and ready to get back on the road again.

Getting some brekky

Getting some brekky

Building bikes in our room/workshop  

Building bikes in our room/workshop  

We also had a quick ride up to a northern suburb to pick up our new, very smart, flags. We just need a pole now - but that shouldn’t be too hard.

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In more good news, Tiger (who’s feeling much better today) has had offers from four of the five universities to whom he applied. Well done Tiger - now you have to make a choice.  

Day 82: Rest day in Bengaluru

Well, sort of a rest day - because I went in to the Aconex office to see the team. It was great to be back in Bengaluru, getting my breakfast on the way in to work and then heading up to the pantry to eat it. Unfortunately, none of my breakfast mates are there any more, plus, the chai is no longer delivered from Chai Point . Oh well, plus ça change.

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Sarina and Tiger headed off to the Museum of Modern Art in an “Auto” - the three wheeled taxi they call a “tuk tuk” in Thailand. They were pretty much the only people there, vastly outnumbered by the staff.

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Unfortunately Tiger got ill, and went back to the hotel to sleep it off.

Sarina was able to join me for a meetup with the old Ecosystem team, who’d gathered together pretty much for the first time since they all went their separate ways.

It was a great reminder of what a fantastic bunch of people they are. We had some great times, we built some great stuff and now it’s lovely to catch up with them and see how they are going. This was one of the mandatory stops on our cycle route - we had to come through Bengaluru, and we had a great evening together. A real highlight.

Thanks for a great evening X-Team

Thanks for a great evening X-Team

Day 81: Flight from Bangkok to Bengaluru

Goodbye Thailand, namaste India

In Bangkok, going for a cycle before work is pretty tricky as the roads are never particularly safe. So, to promote more riding in the city, a cycle track has been built around the airport. It’s not just a track though, it’s a whole cycling facility, with cycle shops, cafés, rfid tags for every rider and 23km of riding on flat (really flat!) beautifully smooth blue tarmac.

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Brian was kind enough to lend us his bike and give Tiger and I a lift out there on his way to work so we could experience the way a lot of Bangkok gets its K’s in. We arrived not long after dawn, and there were already small groups of riders making their way around the track.

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After we rode back in to town it was time to pack up the bikes into the boxes Brian had got for us. We’re getting quite good at the packing, but it still took four hours to get everything packed down - just in time for our taxi to arrive - a big maxi taxi that could easily hold all our boxes.

Now, hello India! Taxis are a bit different here, so the boxes were strapped on the roof of a couple of small taxis and we raced down the motorway from the airport. To Indiranagar, where we’re staying. No dramas though, so everything is safe and sound.

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Day 80: Rest day in Bangkok

A day of sightseeing in the BKK. First a trip round the canals or khlongs of Bangkok, past temples, houses and some pretend markets for tourists. 

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Then a visit to the Grand Palace, the former residence of the Thai Royal Family, and where the new King will be crowned in a month or so.  

A big thanks to Prasert, Brian’s driver. By far the best way to navigate Bangkok is with an expert at the wheel, and Prasert steered us safely through the mayhem.  

The Temple at the Grand Palace

The Temple at the Grand Palace

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Fetching pants that we had to wear to cover our horrendously offensive legs.  

Fetching pants that we had to wear to cover our horrendously offensive legs.  

In the evening we had a beautiful meal with Brian, Celia and Ross. French cheeses, lovely pasta and Sancerre wine. A blissful moment of normality in the Asia. 

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Day 79: Samut Sakhon to Bangkok

We’ve made it to Bangkok

…and we’ve made it to Brian and Celia’s lovely apartment in Sathon. It seems strange after so many nights in adequate, but often a little basic hotel rooms, to spend a night in a lovely, clean home. Our dusty panniers seem very out of place.

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Bangkok also gave us the chance to get to a DJI Service Centre to find out what’s gone wrong with our drone. They’ve taken a look and it seems it was just sand in the cooling fan, so we should be ok to start getting some lovely aerial shots of India as we start the next phase of our journey.

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Getting to Brian and Celia’s home has also meant we get the parcels we’ve had sent there, so we get two upgrades. Firstly, the replacement satellite tracker will work with batteries again. This means we can broadcast our position every thirty minutes again, rather than once per day when we can plug the tracker in.

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Secondly, we have a replacement rear cassette for the Blue Strawberry. Since Indonesia we’ve had a problem with the second lowest gear on the bike jumping badly. This has meant some big jumps if we try to start in that gear, and a few dented shins. With a new cassette we should finally have a fully functional Strawberry again.

Brian and Celia treated us to a lovely rooftop meal last night with a great view over Bangkok. Great to catch up and learn about living in Bangkok.

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Day 78: Phetchaburi to Samut Sakhon

Fast day on the highway​

The breakfast that shall not be spoken of again. We ordered “honey on toast” and this lolly encrusted, ice cream laden plate was what we received.

The breakfast that shall not be spoken of again. We ordered “honey on toast” and this lolly encrusted, ice cream laden plate was what we received.

After a short section at the beginning of the day on quiet seaside roads, we had to take the main expressway the last 40km into Samut Sakhon. Heavy traffic as we approach Bangkok so no the most idyllic cycle touring. 

We did get some time riding next to salt pans that were being “harvested.”

We did get some time riding next to salt pans that were being “harvested.”

However, flat roads and a tailwind meant we were pushing 53x11 for a while, hammering along at over 40km/h.  

That kind of speed meant we were at our destination by lunchtime - a new record for us.  

That gave Tiger some time to check out a bicycle shop he’d been following on social media - K-Siam.  They had a really good selection of nice high-end kit. MAAP clothing, Bastion games and lots of little trick bits. Very nice. We came, we looked, we bought nothing.

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We only wanted a snack for supper, so a hawker stall in town was perfect. This woman turned out three prawn noodle dishes in no time. Such good food here.

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then to the barbers to get a tidy up - and my first ever professional shave. That’s Tiger in the background trying to find the tihai for “A little shorter, bu not too short.”

then to the barbers to get a tidy up - and my first ever professional shave. That’s Tiger in the background trying to find the tihai for “A little shorter, bu not too short.”

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Dy 77: Hua Hin to Petchaburi

​We lost a flag! 😞

Today was a beautiful day of riding the great roads of Thailand. From the wide roads of Hua Hin with bars, massage shops and the furniture stores as we left town, to the smooth rural roads with a wide cycle lane on the side, Thailand makes cycling super easy. ​

A shady break with the calming influence of Buddha to watch over us

A shady break with the calming influence of Buddha to watch over us

Even a puncture couldn’t break the mood. It was just an opportunity to do a little more resting in the shade of a large billboard.  

Even a puncture couldn’t break the mood. It was just an opportunity to do a little more resting in the shade of a large billboard.  

Lunch was by a lily pond in a strangely Native American themed roadside café, where pad thais with some fish were finished off with a coconut dessert. Bliss. 

After the mammoth ride yesterday we’d set our sights a little lower for today and were just doing 70km, so we rolled into the medium sized military town of Phetchaburi at around 3pm with a nice chilled afternoon of recovery planned. That’s when we noticed the Blue Strawberry was missing it’s flag!

Tiger did some detective work with the videos we’d shot and we knew it was somewhere between 20 and 10 km back, but it was 30° and we were a bit knackered so we mourned it’s loss and set about working out how to replace it. 

Our flag - lost somewhere south of Petchaburi.

Our flag - lost somewhere south of Petchaburi.

Luckily we’re off to Bengaluru next, so i’m putting my faith in the flag makers of India to be able to sort us out a matching pair of replacement flags to carry on our journey. 

Fingers crossed.  

Touring the world one laundromat at a time.  

Touring the world one laundromat at a time.  

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 Sop press:

For evening meal we’ve been introduced to my kratha, Thai barbecue. We’re now roasting our own prawns and squid over a searing hot plate... and sweating!

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Day 76: Klongvan to Hua Hin

Prawn farms and beaches, for 126km

We bit off a big piece of the ride to Bangkok today with our longest one day ride - 128km. 

An almost daily ritual now of an ice cream in 7-11. Sarina picks a durian fruit lolly and we all get to enjoy the aroma.  

An almost daily ritual now of an ice cream in 7-11. Sarina picks a durian fruit lolly and we all get to enjoy the aroma.  

Luckily we had a helpful tailwind for the final 40km, which helped us get on the beach at Hua Hin before sunset. ​

Hua Hin beach, just before sunset.  

Hua Hin beach, just before sunset.  

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Day 75: Ban Krut to Klongvan

It’s time we visited a temple 

The beach at Ban Krut is dominated by a large temple on a headland at the northern end. We’d been admiring i the previous day so we decided to burn some energy to get up the hill and take a look. 

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First we made it to the Buddha. 50m tall and gold - pretty impressive. 

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Carrying on on foot, we made our way to the temple up a wide elegantl staircase  

 An amazing structure

 An amazing structure

Inside there were some interesting spaces. The outer corridor ended in a picture window with a Buddha statue in every direction, and on two levels. All the doorways have lintels at the bottom, giving the appearance of a picture frame or mirror, also they were narrower at the top, giving a false perspective feel.  

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Whilst I was waiting by the bicycles a group of Korean tourists started chatting to me. They were interested to hear about where we were going, where we’d been and the took an instant phot with me and gave me the print. Very nice of them. 

thank you Li, Choi and you wives. We must cycle through Korea. 

thank you Li, Choi and you wives. We must cycle through Korea. 

The rest of the journey went from small country roads to a main road to a farm track and back, but we got to our destination in the end.  

And what a destination. A beautiful house of a Warmshowers host. 

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We were able to dive in to the pool and cool down. Bliss. Thanks Cedric and your wife. 

Day 74: Thung Wua Laen to Ban Krut

Big rides are a cinch now

Over 100km today, and it seemed pretty easy, even at over 30°C for a lot of the day. Pride comes before a fall - let’s see how we go in the next few days, but I reckon we’re getting into the swing of this. 

Tiger looking for his Nana.  

Tiger looking for his Nana.  

The road today was mainly the Royal  Coast Road, and very deserving of HRH’s patronage in our opinion- it was a lovely ride with a wide cycle lane most of the time. 

On the way we past this view and had to send Tiger back to get the photo - it was too good to miss. 

On the way we past this view and had to send Tiger back to get the photo - it was too good to miss. 

 Lunch by the road was Tom Yum soup, with the most gorgeous pineapple as dessert. Food is a real highlight in Thailand. 

Tonight’s accommodation is pretty interesting. It’s like a tiled garage with a roller door that a Warmshowers host has set us up with. It feels strange to us, but this is how a lot of Thai people live, in little two room units like this. Afraid of mozzies, we’ve pitched our tents inside. 

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Oh,and Sarina got some new glasses at Tesco

Oh,and Sarina got some new glasses at Tesco

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Day 73: Chumphon to Thung Wua Laen

Back on the move

Packed up again and back on the move.

Packed up again and back on the move.

We caught our last ferry for a while from Ko Tao back to the mainland at Chumphon.  We ended up perched on the stern deck as we always board last with the bikes and the seats are always ful. It’s a pretty nice place to spend an hour and a half though. 

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Then we were off and riding, up the eastern coast of Thailand for the next six days until we reach Bangkok. Just a short day today as we spent half the day on a ferry. Some big days to come though. 

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The country is beautiful and it has great beaches and great food - what more could we want.  

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Day 71: Rest day in Ko Tao

Pampering and learning  

Whilst Tiger’s off learning the finer points of breathing underwater in a classroom, the tandem crew are taking the opportunity to get a bit of pampering done.  

His and hers pedicure  

His and hers pedicure  

Professional job

Professional job

Meanwhile Tiger was doing the hard work getting his PADI diving certificate. Well, he watched a lot of videos and kneeled on the bottom of the pool a lot. 

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Tomorrow he’s out on a boat to sea some real open water, with corl, fish and things. 

Day 69: Ratchaprapha Dam to Surat Thani

​Another day riding without Tiger, but we’re meeting him at Surat Thani today.

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It was a pretty easy day, mainly up the main road. We climbed through a pass at one point, but had a good descent on the other side.

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Highlight of the day - stroopwaffel at a local café chain trying to be more like Starbucks than Starbucks.

We met Tiger in a restaurant in town and then headed up to the ferry port to book tickets. It turned out we can’t book a day ahead, so we’re on a list but we buy our tickets tomorrow. Then we’ll be heading over to Koh Tao and Tiger’s diving course.

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Day 68: Phang Nga to Ratchaprapha Dam

Valentine’s Day ride

Woke up with my Valentine today and we decided to go for a bicycle ride together! Yay! 

Breakfast was at the local market - noodles and some yummy pancakes cooked in pots.  

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Then we were chugging across the middle of Southern Thailand. Beautiful rolling hills of jungle covered outcrops, plus rubber and palm oil plantations of course.  Lunch was noodles and soup by the side of the road with a bunch of rubber plantation workers, where the owner ran after us to give us some complimentary pineapple as we left - which was just what we needed.

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Then we followed some tiny country roads up to the dam here, to a sweet little guesthouse in the absolute middle of nowhere.

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